Q

Anonymous asked:

(sorry I am asking this anonymously becausee I don't have a Tumblr account) I was reading a post you made some time ago about why you hate fashion at the moment. You mentioned everything being so "instant" so I'm curious to know what your opinion is of livestreams, do you think it ruins the fashion?

A

Oh, I didn’t say I hated fashion, just that I was (am?) bored with it. Here’s the post you’re referring to.

Anyway- interesting question! As much as I DO hate how instant everything is, I’d be lying if I said I didn’t watch the occasional live stream. I’m not sure who the first designer to stream their show live on the internet was however the first I distinctly remember was Alexander McQueen Spring 2010 - Plato’s Atlantis. It was so popular, due in part to Lady Gaga, that it crashed the server. Despite this it proved to be a hit and ever since then streaming has become the norm.
A few years ago for a high-school student from Brazil to watch Balenciaga at his computer as it happened in Paris was about as unthinkable as actually attending the show. In the past, the first we saw of a new collection wasn’t 2 minutes after it happened on instagram or even 2 hours later on style.com, it was 2 months down the track in the ad campaign run in Vogue or Harper’s Bazaar.
Now, because of social media, there exists this urgency and designers recognize this. Let’s talk about Marc Jacob’s recent collection (and livestream) for Louis Vuitton because I think what he did was important to this question. The whole show was a spectacle as we have come to expect. In the show the models came down an escalator in pairs. It was over in no more than 6 minutes. (If you’re not familiar with how long shows can be, usually they are closer to 15-20 minutes) For such an elaborate and presumably expensive set, this seems ridiculous, right? But in those 6 minutes we were presented with a very strong vision and knew from the moment the first 2 models came out who the Louis Vuitton woman was for Spring 2013.
I don’t think live streams “ruin” fashion, but they have definitely opened a new avenue for brands to market themselves (and satisfy the consumers need for the new now) for better or worse. I think the problem comes when a designer doesn’t have a clear vision or when they try too hard to be forward thinking and it gets lost.  


A yeti walks the runway and a model sends out an SOS during Jeremy Scott’s Fall/Winter 2013 show in New York

A yeti walks the runway and a model sends out an SOS during Jeremy Scott’s Fall/Winter 2013 show in New York

A yeti walks the runway and a model sends out an SOS during Jeremy Scott’s Fall/Winter 2013 show in New York

Q

fashiononfifth asked:

So wait, who were you're favorite shows since Alexander was a disappointment? Because I think his recent collection shows growth because hes trying out new silhouettes that most New York designers don't do. New York designers tend to typically stay in the same range of silhouettes and its just a constant repeat some seasons... don't you agree?

A

I do agree that New York designers tend to overuse the same silhouettes and not be as experimental as Milan, Paris and even London but I just found Alexander Wang really unflattering despite mixing things up a bit. 

Let’s see.. I loved Marc by Marc Jacobs, it’s simple and someone said in my ask box it looks like all the clothes had been thrifted but I don’t necessarily think that’s a bad thing for a designer that is known to be gimmicky and often not practical. The styling by Venetia Scott is one of the best parts of a little Marc show and this was no exception. Everything looks wearable, I found it the perfect NYFW collection. 
I also adored Oscar de la Renta. ODLR’s ladies who lunch have been reinterpreted by Galliano’s drama for the better - whether it was the work of Galliano himself or not. (Mostly) everything was gorgeous and expensive looking. The 2 final dresses, especially Magdalena’s, were exquisite.
Then there was Proenza Schouler. Jack and Lazaro usually produce my favourite collection out of NYFW. Unlike others, who tore last season apart, I was in love with Spring 2013. This one was not as great in my books but I still thought it was a solid collection and there were some amazing individual pieces. To me they are miles ahead of most other designers in NY. They are like Alexander Wang in that they have created a brand very quickly and are great at selling to the cool downtown girl they dress. Everything from the hair and makeup and the casting - which they had the best of the season so far - was on point and true to their aesthetic.

Vogue US November 2002 by Bruce Weber